3am came and I was startled awake by loud footsteps walking slow through the dry leaves by the tent. I sat up for a few minutes, keeping still, with heart beating quickly. Eventually it came right near the tent and I saw that it was just a hedgehog. I shoed it away and went back to sleep.
We got going right at 8am, excited to get to Como and to see my friend Andrés. We had a quick coffee and croissant, then a stop at a dairy farm for yogurt and cheese around 30km, sandals around 50km at Decathlon, and lunch around 60km. We passed many cyclists this morning (and have seen many since being in Italy). They were mostly middle aged men, all kitted out in matching Lycra, and often rode in packs, many of whom were probably from the outskirts of Milan, as we were passing quite close.
For lunch we had pastries and pizzas from a bakery and coffee at a cafe. The waiter was excited to hear how far we were biking and brought us champagne, toasted us, and said the coffees we’d ordered were on the house.
Another 20km later we reached Como – with Andrés and his girlfriend Elena already there waiting for us. They had driven 7 hours or so from Zurich in their van and it was really great to get to see friendly faces. We jumped a fence in order to have a wash in the lake, taking turns jumping in off the seawall, and then spent the evening having pasta dinner, drinks, and gelato.
We drove with Andrés and Elena just across the border to Chiasso to find a field where they could park and we could pitch the tent. We’re now safely tucked in.
We’re sad to be leaving Italy! It’s been our favourite country so far. The people have been really friendly and chatty, the roads have been mostly smoothly paved, the cars much more patient and considerate than expected, and we’ve never been so well fed (and for this cheap). We’re now prepared for austerity in Switzerland, but have at least brought a 500g salami and bottle of wine to soften the blow. Goodbye for now to coffee in cafés, warm weather, and easy life!
